May 3, 2007

The Pod Hotel

While Downtown Manhattan is booming with hip upscale boutique hotels like the Bowery Hotel and the upcoming Standard Hotel in the Meatpacking District, the question remains--where can one get an affordable hotel room in New York City?

You could always hit up the Holiday Inn on Lafayette Street (SoHo) yet do so in July and August when the room rates drop down to $169 as opposed to visiting in May and June (rates start at $249). But if you are looking to stay this month or next, head back uptown to The Pod Hotel on East 51st Street.

The Pod Hotel recently reopened after extensive renovations (it used to be the Pickwick Arms Hotel) that turned the small rooms into hip (but still small) rooms, decked out with modern furniture, bright colors and the latest tech gadgets like iPod docking stations and free WiFi.

For a weekend in June, there was a Double Pod Room available which sleeps two in a queen bed and has a private bath for $209 a night. Also available was the Bunkbed Pod Room-- "For That Overgrown Kid in You!" This room features two twin bunk beds, each with a reading light and LCD TV. Unfortunately, you share a bath with other guests. But the hotel does have an alert system in place---a little light will go on in your room if the bathroom is occupied so you don't have to trek down the hall and knock on the door. And this room is very wallet friendly at $169 a night. We just don't know if Mom and Dad will want to stay here too.

"Borrowing" Airport WiFi

So, you’re aware of the cruel, (mostly) true rule of major airports sticking to fee-based WiFi services like Boingo, instead of providing free wireless. The good news about this is that the bigger the airport, the more airline lounges it’s likely to have. The more airline lounges your airport has, the more opportunities you have to leech off their members’ service! Jaunted has done its fair share of reporting on such activities of questionable morality. Anyway, this is a popular traveler’s “trick,” so you shouldn’t feel too bad about it. One of my favorite places to “borrow” WiFi is outside the Continental Presidents Club at Honolulu Airport, in an open air corridor. If the weather’s right.

If you need to weigh your WiFi options in advance and do a little planning, here’s a breakdown of who you can count on: Continental Presidents clubs offer complimentary WiFi access, as do most Northwest Airlines WorldClubs. Most Delta Crown Clubs offer only standard T-Mobile WiFi, and the same goes for United Airlines Red Carpet Clubs. American Airlines’ Admirals Clubs vary, with some offering T-Mobile pay service and others offering complimentary WiFi. You’ll need to visit airlines’ websites to confirm your specific location has what you need, but that should be a handy start.

While JetBlue doesn’t have any lounges (don’t forget about that one-class equality!), they have gone the extra mile and converted their whole terminal at JFK Airport in New York into a free WiFi hotspot. My experience there has been alright, but I find that the signal can be weak when the terminal is really crowded.

The next step in this whole game will be getting WiFi in the air. I was heartbroken when Connexion by Boeing, the in-flight WiFi provider, folded. I only used it once, but it helped me get a great chunk of work done on a very long flight from New York to Tokyo. Even if I hadn’t been a business traveler at the time, I could have used the service to complain to friends on IM, watch illegally uploaded television shows on YouTube, and generally entertain myself. While I’m ashamed to want to travel with my laptop, I have to admit that such options on a long flight really can make the difference between a miserable experience in economy class and a passable one.

JetBlue and the yet-to-be-launched Virgin America are very eager to get in-flight WiFi running, so you can watch for that. Just don’t hold your breath.

Dresden rising

I am such a fan of Dresden. Even if we ignore, for a moment, my extreme affinity for all things East German, Dresden has a lot going for it. It is a gorgeous city. It’s full of history. It’s less expensive than many other European destinations. What’s not to love?

Historically Dresden was a very grand city and cultural center, and home to much royalty. In WWII it was heavily bombed, and then it suffered architecturally under the rule of the GDR, emerging from the Cold War a shadow of its former self. Since the early ‘90s, however, Dresden has been re-emerging as a grand city, and definitely one worth a visit.

Dresden makes a fabulous destination year-round. Boat trips on the Elbe River are enjoyable during the warmer months, but to me the best time to visit is in December for the extensive outdoor Christmas markets that spring up all over the city. Here are some of my other favorite things to do in the Saxon capital:

Take a walking tour (organized or self-guided) to admire the architecture of the Altstadt. Walking not your thing? Try a Trabi tour.

Hang out in the courtyard of the recently-restored Zwinger palace, which is a great place to people-watch on a nice day; visit the world-class art collection on display in the palace’s Old Masters Gallery.

Across the river, explore the vibrant bars and nightlife of the Neustadt, and marvel at the views back across of the illuminated Altstadt promenade.

Dresden is a comfortable 2-hour train ride from Berlin or Prague, and can be visited as a day trip from either city (although I’d recommend spending at least a couple days there if you can – there’s much more to see in Saxony, too). It is also serviced by a nearby airport, which is a short train ride away from downtown.

May 1, 2007

Lower East Side hotels

Staying in Midtown Manhattan is so over these days. Sure, midtown has a lot of hotel choices and it's convenient to be near Central Park, Rockefeller Center, Times Square and other tourist traps but Downtown Manhattan is emerging as the place to stay.

For the past decade, hotels have begun populating once not-so-populated neighborhoods like Tribeca, SoHo and the Meatpacking District. These new hotels are often independent boutique hotels with cutting edge design and technology, restaurants helmed by top chefs and hip nightclubs or lounges. Now, the newest nabes to get a slice of the hotel action are the Lower East Side and the Financial District.

On the LES, there's The Hotel on Rivington(nicknamed THOR) whose modern glass structure sticks out amidst the neighborhood's turn-of the-century buildings. While Thor takes a more 21st century approach (including voyeuristic showers) two new hotels that have opened near the Bowery have a more antique feel with guestrooms decked in dark colors (and lighting), wood furniture, prewar baths and brass accent pieces.

In March, The Bowery Hotel opened, featuring giant factory windows in each suite thus giving guests superb views of downtown. Each room also has high-tech amenities like a DVD player, a flat-screen TV, an iPod docking station and free wireless. Its sister property, The Lafayette House NYC opened shortly afterwards and has a similar feel but on a much smaller scale. There's only 14 rooms here and your dining and nightlife can be found next door at the Bowery Restaurant & Bar. And beware, the Lower East Side is very different from the Upper East Side so expect to see a few undesirable people on the block.

Coming up? The Soho hotel, 60 Thompson, expects to get sibling hotels in both Tribeca and the LES in 2008 while Andre Balazs hopes to open his Standard Hotels brand that year in the Meatpacking District.

And near Wall Street, a W Hotel plans on opening their fifth hotel in Manhattan which will be a mix of hotel rooms and residences. Hyatt will also debut their newest brand, called Andaz, at 75 Wall Street. In the meantime, there are 2,000 more hotel rooms expected in downtown New York within five years, according to the Alliance for Downtown New York. Which is impressive because that's about twice the amount of rooms already there now.

Airport WiFi: Bigger Is Not Always Better

When it comes to airport WiFi, the same rule generally used on hotels applies: the "nicer" the airport, the less likely you are to find free service. Of course, there are always exceptions, and in this case "nicer" basically means "bigger," but that idea will give you a head start. Whether carried for business purposes or other, less pressing, diversions, laptops are becoming an increasingly important travel staple these days.

Jaunted frequently reports on airport WiFi offerings. An example of a smaller airport with great wireless service might be Syracuse International Airport, Sacramento International Airport, or Birmingham International Airport in Alabama. A notable exception to the "bigger the airport, worse the WiFi" rule is McCarran Airport in Las Vegas. McCarran is bustling, yet the WiFi there is free, which you might not expect. Perhaps they fund it with money from those in-airport slot machines?

Elsewhere, you'll probably be confronted with major WiFi networks such as Cingular, ATT, and the ever-present airport provider Boingo. Day passes (24-hours) for such services will run you around $7.95. That's a lot less than what many luxury hotels try to extort from you, but still expensive when you consider that you may only need to get online for an hour or two.

If you're desperate for free airport WiFi, here's a tip: don't let your desire get the best of you. If you're at the airport and locate a network whose name you don't recognize (something like - reewifi, perhaps), beware. It could be a scam meant to give others access to important information on your computer. If you have time, it's worth familiarizing yourself with the WiFi situation at your airport of choice so you don't fall victim to such tricks.

Discovering Berlin’s divided past

Roughly 17 years after reunification, A visitor to today’s Berlin can easily find herself wondering whether she’s standing in the former East or West. After years of construction, the scar down the city’s center has healed quite nicely, at least on the surface. Public transportation is fully integrated, of course. The former No Man’s Land of Potsdamer Platz is now home to the glitzy, commercial Sony Center. McDonald’s and other chain establishments have taken over both halves of the city with equal gusto.

Those who are unfamiliar with the city can follow the path of the wall with the aid of a map; those distributed to tourists almost always mark the border between former East and West with a line of some sort. A few pieces of the wall still stand, and a replica of Checkpoint Charlie has been re-installed in the middle of Friedrichstrasse, complete with actors dressed as American soldiers who man it during the day.

There are still ways to get a glimpse into parts of the real East Berlin, however. For example, hop on a subway to Lichtenberg, one of the outer-lying districts to the east. This is best done on a cold, grey, rainy day, as that will enhance the depressing effect of the cinderblock architecture that dominates this area.

If you understand German (or can bring along someone who does), I highly recommend the museum located in the former Stasi headquarters to get a glimpse at the dark underbelly that controlled the GDR. In a city that is undergoing constant change, this building stands out in that it still looks much the way it did when Mielke was in charge, both inside and out.

After you’ve taken in the rooms full of history and spy cameras, and marveled at the hop-on-hop-off elevator, stop in the café for some Rotkäppchen. This sparkling wine is one of the few brands from the GDR which still exists today. On second thought, go find a cheerier locale to drink in. Berlin has lots of them.

April 26, 2007

Switzerland’s off season

Switzerland is a huge destination for tourists, and with good reason. The natural beauty of this small, Alp-filled country is hard to beat. In the winter, Switzerland becomes one of the world’s premiere ski destinations, while in the summer, the mountains fill up with hikers and the lakes with bathers.

In the seasons in between, however, a lot of Switzerland’s tourist areas all but close down. The gondolas and chair lifts which transport skiers and hikers are closed for repair, or just because of lack of demand. Many hotels and restaurants close as their owners head out for their own vacations. And the bustling party scenes in popular resorts such as Zermatt and Interlaken all but dry up.

Despite these obstacles, spring and fall can be fabulous times for a getaway in the Swiss Alps, as long as you do a little advanced planning. I think these times are even better than summer for hiking, since the sun isn’t quite as oppressive.

Although you may have to search a little harder to find a hotel or apartment that’s available, it’s possible to score some great off-season discounts at the places that do remain open during these times. Be sure to ask about the specific amenities that will be available during your stay – during the off-season, breakfast may not be served and the hot tub might be out of commission, for example.

We found a great deal on an apartment in Zermatt last spring, with sweeping views of the town and the Matterhorn, via Zermatt’s website. Although a couple of lifts were down for repairs, we still managed to get in plenty of panoramic hikes, and in the evening we were well entertained. Many other Swiss mountain destinations have similar websites to Zermatt’s, and I’ve found them to be great resources for planning mountain getaways. Now, where to go this weekend?

The Lloyd Hotel

When we arrived at the Lloyd Hotel in Amsterdam it was a cold, rainy gray morning in early December and our room wasn't quite ready which after a long overnight flight was a little annoying. Yet the hotel said we could rest up in one of their "one-star" rooms until ours was ready. Yes, the hotel has different categories of rooms, ranging from one star to five-star.

Our one-star room was at first glance, a little dreary. It had tiled walls and tile floors, a small TV hanging on the wall and a bare-bones desk. However, the bed was heavenly with a fluffy white comforter and a somewhat thin but soft mattress. We took a much-needed nap there until the front desk phoned saying our four-star room was ready. The only real downside to this was that one-star rooms share a unisex bathroom at the end of the hall.

Our four star room was located on the sixth floor facing the water and had a sort of attic/loft appeal. Again the bed was soft, plush and completely comfortable. The bathroom was a bit strange with no proper bathroom but rather a blue-ish partition that separated the toilet, sink and shower (no shower curtain) from the rest of the room.

As for the other rooms, they all have quirky baths. There's a three star room where the shower is not enclosed at all but simply a shower head juts out of the wall and the water flows into a small drain in the floor. The hotel thoughtfully places a squeegee mop in the room for when you're done showering. One room has painted red walls and a tub smack dab in the middle of the room.

Another room was built out of the old pharmacy that was in the building when it was a stop for Eastern European immigrants on their way to America in the 1920s. A bed was placed in the old elevator shaft and the medicine cabinets painted white to make it a little more appealing.

Then there's the hotel's suite with the eight-person bed we mentioned earlier. The bi-level suite also has a table for 12 (or more) and a piano, making it more suitable for conferences and meetings and in some cases, for families.

The hotel has a small but delicious restaurant which also serves room service, a library, a lounge and free wireless that works amazingly fast. We were able to download episodes of "The Office" from iTunes in record time. However, the Lloyd is actually a bit out of the way from the center of Amsterdam. Luckily there's a tram stop just outside the hotel or if it's a nice day, you can walk along the water into town in about 15-20 minutes. Depending on which rooms you book, expect to pay between 80 and 295 Euros.

Don't Pass Osaka By

Osaka, Japan, has a bum wrap as a drab "concrete jungle." Many guidebooks describe Japan's second city (or third, if you want to get technical and talk in terms of population size) as a flyover metropolis-big, but not worth visiting. Kyoto is served by the same major airport (Kansai International) and seems to get far more attention. No offense to the other wonderful attractions within reach of Kansai Airport, but I'd rather base myself in Osaka and day trip it from there, rather than base myself in Kyoto and possibly pencil in some time for Osaka. There's a vibrancy to Osaka that isn't hard to discover, if you can just make it there on the bullet train from Tokyo.

Your stay can be cheap, too. You can get a spotless, if small, room in Osaka for ***well under $100. Try one of a couple of ***Comfort Hotels in town, as they have a reputation for reliable service at low prices. Outside of your hotel, the neighborhood of ***Nakazakicho should be your first stop in town. It's a little-publicized oasis of independent culture and young entrepreneurship that's a thrill to discover for the first time. The old buildings of ***Nakazakicho are filled with businesses run by young ***Osakans looking to express themselves rather than strike it rich. Their stores sell homemade crafts, sweets, and clothes, and the scene is wholly organic and a long way off from being co-opted. A short stroll around the area outside ***station will give you plenty of reasons to love the city.

If you love cities, I recommend planting yourself in Osaka instead of, or at least in addition to, Kyoto. The bullet train ride from Tokyo to Osaka is its own experience, and places like Kyoto and Nara are within easy reach of the city. For more information, Kansai Scene magazine is an excellent English-language resource for travel information and entertainment listings in the Kansai area.

April 23, 2007

Switzerland’s answer to Groundhog Day

In Zurich, spring’s arrival isn’t predicted by a furry, shadow-gazing rodent peeking out of his hole. No, that’s obviously too silly of a tradition for the Swiss. They use a much more scientific method, one that involves… lighting a giant snowman on fire and timing how long it takes for his head to explode. Really.

Sechseläuten is one of Zurich’s signature holidays, with festivities lasting the entire weekend leading up to the main event (which usually falls on the third Monday in April). The festivities are run by the guilds, fancy clubs whose membership used to be based on the crafts that men (not women) learned – essential, vital crafts such as pretzel-making and beer brewing. While in medieval times the guilds used to form part of Zurich’s government, the current-day versions are often criticized as being nothing more than exclusive clubs for the rich; membership is primarily passed down from one generation of Zurich’s upper class to the next.

Monday afternoon there is a large parade of guild members and their bands, decked out in their finest period costumes and waving their colorful guild flags. The women (who are mainly relegated to the role of spectator) sit on the side of the parade route with large baskets of flowers, which they hand out to all their favorite parade participants.

But all this is just a precursor to the real excitement of the day: the burning of the Böögg. The Böögg, a snowman-like figure constructed out of plaster, paint, chicken wire, and explosives, is mounted high atop a burnable structure in the middle of small field in front of the opera house. At precisely 6 PM, the structure is set on fire, and the enormous surrounding crowd grows hushed as it counts down the minutes until the flames reach and consume the Böögg’s explosive-filled head. The longer it takes for the head to explode, the colder and gloomier summer will be. And that, ladies and gentlemen, is how you predict the end of winter.